Portugal: Wine Overview

Portugal was not a beer trip. In fact, I think this was my only beer on the trip:

From Global Food

After all, its hard to compete with the wine since its A: so cheep

From Global Food

B:So good; and C: Has so much variety.

As for A, that price is a little misleading. The standard price we paid for most bottles was in the 5 to 10 euros range, which still meant that it was more affordable to get a whole bottle than a single drink at most night clubs. At those prices, why just get one bottle?

From Global Food

With item B... you can either take my word for it, or go exploring your local wine store. I'm fortunate enough to live in Boston, which has a substantial Portuguese population. The other day I wandered into a random wine store in Cambridge, which has a significant Portuguese/Brazilian section, and found a diverse and plentiful selection of Iberian imports.

The variety is in fact as assorted and interesting as any major wine producing nation. Amongst others, there are, of course, whites...

From Global Food

... reds...

From Global Food

... roses...

From Global Food

... ports...

From Global Food

... and what is known as Vino Verde, or "green wine."

From Global Food

This is not an indication to the color, as you would find with Croatian black wines, but rather to age. Verdes are very young, immature wines. Accordingly, they are fresh, light and have an almost airy quality to them. They are ideal for drinking during hot summer days since they are so refreshing and simple.

At my behest we managed to pack in three winery tours during our time in and around Evora, the capital of the Alentejo region. Our first stop was the relatively modest, family run Roquevale. The next day we visited the massive CARMIM coop...

From Global Food

...and the overly touristy Herdade do Esporão.

Our first shock the presence of boxed wine. Yes. Wine, in a box. Every place seems to produce it due to a large domestic demand for it. Boxes make appearances in several liter sizes, and even juice box versions.

From Global Food

I just don't know.

The tours afforded us the opportunity to not only appreciate the relatively recent modernization of the Portuguese wine industry since Salazar. Up through the 1970s the main fermentation took place not in metal vats as seen today, but rather in massive terracotta jars (which I seem to have lost the photo of). The EU seems to have allowed a massive step up in both the level of sophistication as well the volume. Wineries, including bottling and distribution sections, are now state of the art. Vestiges of the low tech remain at many facilities for tourist photo ops and specialty souvenirs.

Apart from the official channels, the most unusual wine was an unfiltered table wine we had at a local restaurant/store around the corner in Lisbon. First of all, this was the difiniative "locals" place. In my previous entry I mentioned a lack of menus, well this was the place. No chalkboard, just verbal descriptions. Which, given our lack of Portuguese skills, was kind of amusing. But aside from being the attraction that night - five American's walk into a working class family restaurant and have no idea what they are doing, yuk, yuk, yuk - the place was very welcoming and friendly. After a fashion, the waitress brought out the following bottle:

From Global Food

Obviously, this is going to be good.

Putting aside questions about age and anti-freeze, we poured our selves some, which looked as like this:

From Global Food

What can I say? It wasn't the most amazing thing I've ever tasted, somewhat watery, unsurprisingly gritty but good.

And then there was the revelation. It's made with water from Fátima. As in, Our Lady of Fátima. Wow. I've never known a wine to be creepy before. But there it is.

So... if you're looking for a takeaway message, check out Portuguese wines: they are inexpensive enough to warrant experimenting with on their own. Supporting that, they are unique and delicious.