Off the to-do list: White Port

One of the souvenirs I got my self in Portugal was a small bottle of white port.

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After having the classic Twany port several times, I was interested in trying something a little more unusual. Tawny is a very sweet wine, almost syrupy both in thickness and in taste. So at some place in Lisbon I grabbed a little bottle to sample the variety and promptly never got around to drinking it on the trip. When I got back, it went straight away into the cabinet with the expectation to open at... some point. Eventually, the white port earned a spot spot on my to-do list. While I was waiting to drink it, I wanted to be able to share it with as well.

Thanks to Nancy and her wine and cheese party last night I finally managed to crack it open.

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Far lighter and much thinner, it had very little aroma with a lovely golden hue. The taste was best captured by Sam when he said, "It tastes like white port," in that it has a similar flavor to any other port, just much lighter. The sweetness is dialed back considerably, and the mouth feel isn't thick like jam, but much closer to a standard white.

While we finished off the evening with the white port, its considered more of an apéritif, and the bottle recommends trying it with soda or tonic.I enjoyed it; its a bit more versatile than a true dessert wine, which can be too much for some people. Still, I have to express a preference for Tawny. I just like sweet wines.

Portugal: Wine Overview

Portugal was not a beer trip. In fact, I think this was my only beer on the trip:

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After all, its hard to compete with the wine since its A: so cheep

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B:So good; and C: Has so much variety.

As for A, that price is a little misleading. The standard price we paid for most bottles was in the 5 to 10 euros range, which still meant that it was more affordable to get a whole bottle than a single drink at most night clubs. At those prices, why just get one bottle?

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With item B... you can either take my word for it, or go exploring your local wine store. I'm fortunate enough to live in Boston, which has a substantial Portuguese population. The other day I wandered into a random wine store in Cambridge, which has a significant Portuguese/Brazilian section, and found a diverse and plentiful selection of Iberian imports.

The variety is in fact as assorted and interesting as any major wine producing nation. Amongst others, there are, of course, whites...

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... reds...

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... roses...

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... ports...

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... and what is known as Vino Verde, or "green wine."

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This is not an indication to the color, as you would find with Croatian black wines, but rather to age. Verdes are very young, immature wines. Accordingly, they are fresh, light and have an almost airy quality to them. They are ideal for drinking during hot summer days since they are so refreshing and simple.

At my behest we managed to pack in three winery tours during our time in and around Evora, the capital of the Alentejo region. Our first stop was the relatively modest, family run Roquevale. The next day we visited the massive CARMIM coop...

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...and the overly touristy Herdade do Esporão.

Our first shock the presence of boxed wine. Yes. Wine, in a box. Every place seems to produce it due to a large domestic demand for it. Boxes make appearances in several liter sizes, and even juice box versions.

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I just don't know.

The tours afforded us the opportunity to not only appreciate the relatively recent modernization of the Portuguese wine industry since Salazar. Up through the 1970s the main fermentation took place not in metal vats as seen today, but rather in massive terracotta jars (which I seem to have lost the photo of). The EU seems to have allowed a massive step up in both the level of sophistication as well the volume. Wineries, including bottling and distribution sections, are now state of the art. Vestiges of the low tech remain at many facilities for tourist photo ops and specialty souvenirs.

Apart from the official channels, the most unusual wine was an unfiltered table wine we had at a local restaurant/store around the corner in Lisbon. First of all, this was the difiniative "locals" place. In my previous entry I mentioned a lack of menus, well this was the place. No chalkboard, just verbal descriptions. Which, given our lack of Portuguese skills, was kind of amusing. But aside from being the attraction that night - five American's walk into a working class family restaurant and have no idea what they are doing, yuk, yuk, yuk - the place was very welcoming and friendly. After a fashion, the waitress brought out the following bottle:

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Obviously, this is going to be good.

Putting aside questions about age and anti-freeze, we poured our selves some, which looked as like this:

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What can I say? It wasn't the most amazing thing I've ever tasted, somewhat watery, unsurprisingly gritty but good.

And then there was the revelation. It's made with water from Fátima. As in, Our Lady of Fátima. Wow. I've never known a wine to be creepy before. But there it is.

So... if you're looking for a takeaway message, check out Portuguese wines: they are inexpensive enough to warrant experimenting with on their own. Supporting that, they are unique and delicious.

Portugal: The best meal

Without a doubt, there is one meal that was bar none the far and away best meal that I had in Portugal: Taberna Al-Andaluz.

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Located in Reguengos de Monsaraz an hour outside of Evora, we got a recommendation to eat here from a Portuguese couple during a tour of the CARMIM winery.

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Located in the middle of the small city, the restaurant is tucked away, in and back, from the road. Being the middle of the week, there was hardly anyone present. In a separate room were a few older men, whom we learned later were local politicians.

After an initial round of "Portuguese Tapas" we began a very lovely conversation with the owner, who insisted on bringing us a plate of fried black pork while he joined us to have his own lunch.

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A local variety of pig to the region, the dish is a perfect example of the style of local style of cooking. Thinly cut, the meat was crispy on the outside and tender within; seasoned with only fresh lemon and sea salt, this dish is perhaps one of the best meals that I have ever had.

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As a supporting player was cabbage and cauliflower in olive oil and garlic. Both of which were brimming with flavor.

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Not convinced that we were completely satisfied with these dishes and his personal favorite bottle of wine, we of course were given dessert.

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Homemade ice cream, fresh fruit and chocolate sauce. Simple, elegant and beautiful. Of course, I was curious and asked if the sauce was porto, and with a twinkle in his eye, the owner brought me a glass.

And after sitting with us, eating with us, feeding us, we were taken on a personal tour of the near by walled city.

If you should find yourself in or around Evora, this restaurant is absolutely worth the trip. Unfortunately, this is the best link I can find on them. I may have their card someplace in my room if your are really interested in more details.

Portugal: Food highlights (standard fair)

While many dishes stood out as extraordinary, there are also many typical examples of the Portuguese cuisine. Overall, the fair tends to be on simple dishes that highlight the natural taste of the food. There are few sauces, instead fish or meat is presented either baked or grilled with an accompaniment of potatoes with vegetables or rice with french fries. Typically, and always at small restaurants, the side dishes are chosen by the house without your input.

Option 1; From Global Food

Option 2; From Global Food

As the two above photos imply, meat tends to always have rice and fries, fish the potatoes and veggies. Don't ask me why. It could be a conclusion they reached as a group prior to our arrival, or just an expectation. Also, pork (and beef to a lesser extent) and fish dominate the food landscape. Meat, as you can see, is generally in smaller strips and was not served in stake cuts. Fish were sometimes filleted, but often had the head, eyes, skin, bones, etc. You quickly learn the mastery of getting the meat out or go hungry.

Salads as we know them are rare. They may or may not even have any lettuce in them. But any vegetables are fresh and tasty.

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Appetizers appear at every table without provocation. Always there is bread, butter, cheese and olives; frequently there is also some kind of meat and fish as well.

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The approach is very different, instead of leaving bread on the table gratis, every item is priced a la cart. Asking for them to be removed is likely to be the only surefire way of not being charged for any of them, but nominally its a "if you touch it you've bought it" situation. At better places, the selection doesn't appear until you sit at the table. But we frequently found ourselves asking how long they had been waiting for a taker.

Depending on the size of the establishment and who they cater to, some places do not have a set menu. One restaurant ate at managed the ordering process as such: "do you want meat or fish?" And then they simply tell you which meat and fish dishes are being served that night. Slightly larger places have a chalkboard.

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Stew: a typical menu item are stews. Besides the migas style, fish and pork are a central theme to most stews. They are often not as heavy as one might expect, especially with seafood, the sauces tend to be a bit light focusing on seasonings and flavor.

Fish Stew; From Global Food

Pork and bread stew; From Global Food

Shark stew; From Global Food

Tuna: not being much of a fan of canned tuna, this was a surprising delight. Given our picnic lunches this was a mainstay of al fresco dinning. Packed in oil, it was bursting with flavor. It was well complemented with fresh tomato, cheese and bread.

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Sausage: due to the historical prevalence of Jews in Portugal a kosher version of sausages have developed. The version shown here is wrapped in a leaf and had a similar texture to pate. It was comparable to black sausage, very fatty but amazing.

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Fava Beans: Silence of The Lamb jokes aside, this is a very popular bean dish. Flavored with ham a, the beans tender, moist flavorful.

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Portugal: Food highlights

During my April 2009 trip to Portugal there were many fabulous food and wine experiences. This is a focus on a few particular dishes which stood out.

Pasteis de Belem (aka Pastel de nata): a small egg tart with a flaky crust; eaten at the linked pastry shop in Belem. Excellent dish, creamy and not overly sweet. Perfect with an espresso as a mid-day snack.

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Feta Cheesecake with porto sauce: a totally unexpected and modern twist on the classic cheesecake. This was a deconstructed approach with thin crispy layers of dough sandwiching crumbly, tart cheese filling.

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Pau De Deus: wonderful sweet eggy bread with a candied coconut topping. It was found regularly at all pastry shops and we frequently enjoyed it at break

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Migas: a traditional pesent stew made from breadcrumbs. A standard, especially inland, can be very simple or surprisingly modern. A hearty dish often accompanied by seafood or ham, I tried several different varieties that were all delicious and unique.

With Shrimp; From Global Food

With fried ham; From Global Food

Queijo de Azeitão: a sublime semi-soft cheese with a strong odor and a robust, earthy flavor. It was a typical appearance as an appetizer at restaurants.

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